Palermo, Italy

I spent a disappointing afternoon in Naples on Thursday and flew to Catania, Sicily that evening. First thing the next morning I boarded a bus for the 3 hour journey to Palermo where I would stay for two days. So within 24 hours I had gone from Naples to Palermo and there were some similarities between the two cities. They are both port towns and for the most part, the buildings in both cities looked as if they could use some attention. However, Palermo was not dirty at all. There was little garbage littering the streets and the vibe in the city was less hectic. I found it an interesting exercise in observation to compare the two. In the end I concluded that Palermo looked well used where as Naples looked unloved.



Driving through Sicily between Catania (on the east coast) and Palermo (on the north west corner).








The guesthouse where I stayed was on the top floor on an apartment block in the old town. They had a roof deck with gorgeous views over the old city and port.









I walked through the old town and through some of the many street markets that line the old alleys. Between the awnings you can see one of the many churches that appear every couple of blocks it seems.



















Two of the four buildings that make up the Quattro Canti; the symbolic crossroads at the centre of the old city.







The Gesu Church which looks somewhat unassuming from the outside.






... but inside, it was THE most beautiful church I have ever seen! The abundance of colour was extraordinary and my timing was perfect as an Italian wedding was just beginning as I walked in. I entered to the sounds of the wedding march and sat unassuming in the back for some time and observed the ceremony.





This church is one of the most highly decorated in Palermo and was constructed between 1564–1633. The use of coloured paint on the frescos added more beauty and vibrance to the church. The rest of church was covered in colourful marble.




















Interesting juxtaposition between the burned out car and the beautiful foliage growing on the side of the building.










The main Cathedral was a dominant building, but inside it paled in comparison to the Gesu Church I had just visited.























I spent a day at Mondello; a beach 10 km west of central Palermo. I paid to sit on a private beach which didn't prove as peaceful as I had hoped. All the families were out and the private beach was crawling with children (which I had hoped would only be on the public beach). More annoying than that were all the people walking around trying to sell their wares which kept interrupting the small pockets of peace and quiet I was able to find. I was quickly reminded this was not the French Rivera.











































I discovered a ruin being excavated.


















On a quiet side street I came across this lovely church on a Sunday morning.










Inside a service was going on and I sat for some time looking at the immense decorations. Perhaps it is the period these churches were constructed in, or the regional style, but I was more impressed with the handful of churches in Palermo than all the rest I have seen throughout Europe.
















A few blocks down the same road was another church.








Inside it was peaceful and a nice place to seek some refuge from the hot morning sun.











It's very common to see these old Fiat 500s everywhere. In Canada it would be a collector's item and here it is a common car. I love them!




One of the major roadways or thoroughfares between old and downtown Palermo is Via Rome. It is usually very hectic with all the major buses using it. On Sundays it is shut to traffic so a market can set up.







For my breakfast I tried one of this vendor's cannolis which is a typican Sicilian treat.

Capri and Naples in pictures

Leaving Amalfi on the ferry on my way to Capri. The trip took 1 hour 20 minutes which afford great views of the rest of the Amalfi Coast.







The town of Positano which is (like Amalfi) one of the more well-known towns on the coast. It is said to be more beautiful and a quieter town.














From my vantage point on the ferry in Positano's harbour, it looks pretty nice







Capri coming into view









Capri's Grand Harbour which sits between the two towns on opposite hilltops; Capri Town and Anacapri (which is visible on the mountain to the right)



Upon arriving on the island I hopped a bus for Anacapri. From the town centre I got on a chairlift to the top of Mount Solaro



















Had a great vantage point from the chair lift






Great vantage point 600 meters above sea level





















Back in Anacapri I went to Villa San Michele, made famous by Axel Munthe who wrote the book "The Story of San Michele"








But, I was more interested in the garden than the house
















From the San Michele garden there was fantastic views of the Grand Harbour below and of Capri Town on the opposite hill








I decided to walk down from San Michele to the harbour below along a trail/stairs






Coming up on the bus was frightening as the roads are so narrow and the drivers are so confident they barely slow down for oncoming traffic






Looking down from the highway; the walking path leading directly down







Looking back up at the highway where I took the picture of the passing buses. If you look closely, you can see one of the yellow Capri public buses chugging along the bridge.















At the harbour I boarded a bus for Capri Town which is a little more popular with the tourists

























I did some hiking as there are loads of trails throughout the island.








As I walked out of town I passed many gates with long gardens walks that led to homes




















































After hiking to the end of Capri island, I could see the Amalfi Coast across the Bay of Naples





I finished my day trip as I always do; with a swim in the beach by the Grand Harbour

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Leaving Amalfi on the ferry to Salerno where I would board a train for Naples




My last view of Amalfi and its neighbour Atrani







Naples lived up to its reputation of being dirty, smelling, crowded and unkept. Some people say this adds to its charm. I am not one of these people.






I thought the stories of mountains of garbage on the side of the road were exaggerated. I was surprised at the state they allowed this city to be in. In short, it was a shit hole.






However, beauty can be found in any city if one has 3 hours to look for it
























The cathedral was surprisingly well kept and sightly as many of the buildings in the area around it were in desperate need of some care and a coat of paint




































I was all too happy to leave Naples. The 3 hours spent there would have been put to better use if I had stayed happily in Amalfi for a few more hours soaking up the best of Italy. Instead I saw it's underbelly; a side I hadn't seen before in this country.

I took an hour-long flight from Naples to Catania in Sicily which gave me a fantastic view of Mount Vesuvius as we left Naples and then Mount Etna as we arrived in Sicily. Two volcanoes in about a half hour... Nina would be so proud!